Building a Grey Seal: Companionway

With many interruptions from an almost daily deluge (the wettest summer on record, so far) I finally got dynel on the entire cabin roof. The last section was a bit scary as it unexpectedly began to rain about 30 minutes after I finished laying the fabric. The epoxy took an inordinate amount of time to dry. Actually there were three or four spots where it was still tacky after 3 days. I did some research on the internet (most references pointed to WoodenBoat Forum, by the way) and the consensus seemed to be that water does something to the hardener that either dilutes it or renders it ineffective. I reasoned that if this is correct, adding another dose of mixed epoxy might kick the previously applied resin. That approach worked, for whatever reason. The epoxy is now good and hard, and sandable.

The great thing about internet advice in general, and WoodenBoat Forum advice in particular, is that everyone has an opinion. If 10 people respond to a question, there are at least 10 different points of view. If one is lucky, one or two of them are correct, and if one is extraordinarily lucky, one will choose to follow one of the correct suggestions. I lucked out this time.

With the cabin top in place, I tackled the cabin trim. I plan to finish the cabin sides bright, as well as the trim. The trim for the entire project is African mahogany. It is easy to machine, relatively inexpensive (compared to gold, at least) and is very pretty. The trim is painstaking work, since most of it is curved and the ends need to be beveled to adjacent pieces, but it turned out pretty well, I think.

Mahogany trim strip along front of cabin.

Cabin side trim, bulkhead top trim, and companionway assembly.

I bedded the trim in Dolphinite bedding compound, because I am frankly tired of epoxy. The trim is all held in place with screws which are countersunk and mahogany bunged.

For about 10 days, I anguished over how to fasten the companionway rails so that the companionway would slide smoothly and they would not shift while being fastened. One 3:00 AM skull session gave me the solution. I slid the hatch onto the rails, positioned and clamped them firmly at the aft end. Then I slid the hatch forward, and marked the location of the inboard and outboard edges of the port and starboard rails. Next, I removed the hatch, removed the rails, and tacked them in place with thickened epoxy. I reclamped the aft end, repositioned the hatch cover toward the front of the rails, and let the epoxy harden. After checking the slide again, I filled any gaps and filleted with West Systems six10 epoxy adhesive. It is as expensive as gold, so I only use it when I really need it. Later, I will mechanically fasten the rails to the cabin top with countersunk bronze machine screws.

The companionway hatch and rails (and my neighbor's back porch.)

I fastened 1/2 inch mahogany trim around the inside of the companionway, the forward section of which serves to block water (and possibly someday, spray) from entering the cabin. It turned out very nicely, I think.

Companionway trim

Finally, I scribed and cut the top section of companionway door to match the curve of the lower edge of the hatch. The cabin is now watertight.

A good tight fit.

Now, my attention has turned back to the centerboard. I decided to build a gantry across the boat, with a homemade trolley to allow me to lift the board from the ground with my chain hoist, raise it, slide the trolley amidships, and lower the board into position.