First starboard section of #7 glued up |
Looking aft |
This is my first update in a month. It is not that I haven't been working, because I have been putting in three or four hours a day, four or five days a week, as has become my custom. It's just that, not having a creative mind, I have not found words or pictures to make an essentially grinding, repetitive, dirty process look new and interesting.
Really, the hull doesn't look all that different as each successive strake is glued up, and the process doesn't change much, (i.e., spile, cut, fit, plane, fit, scarph, fit, glue, repeat process.) Actually, the iterative process has become even more iterative in the last few weeks. Starting with the fifth strake, I exceeded a total plank length of 23 feet, which meant that I need to use 4 sections from my 4 foot x 8 foot plywood sheets to make each full strake. Might not seem like much, but it adds 33.3% additional work to each plank. If you like numbers: that means, by the time I finish, I will have spiled, cut, fit, planed, fit, scarphed, fit, and glued 56 plank sections.
An additional challenge has been our weather recently. An annual summer-long blessing bestowed on the middle part of the US east coast is the "Bermuda high," consisting of high temperatures, little rain, and extraordinary humidity.
With daytime temperatures in the high 90s and even into the 100s each day for the last couple of weeks, gluing has become even more of a challenge, and sometimes an impossibility. Even with tropical hardener, and my poor garage air conditioner coughing and sputtering away, the setup time is simply too fast. It has been suggested that storing the resin and hardener in the refrigerator would help, but I value my domestic relationship too much to even broach that as a possibility.
A cool, air conditioned, 91 degrees F |
Stanley 92 rabbet plane for sweetening plank edges |
I expect to be working on strake #7 for another week or so, and then moving on to the shear strake. This will take a bit of special planning, because I want to have the option of finishing the shear strake bright. Therefore, no temporary screws to hold the glued plank in place, perfect scarphs, careful grain selection, and on, and on, and on.
Gday Charles Great progress you're making ( I've got about three frames still to go ).
ReplyDeleteI'm jealous, both of your hull and that sexy plane.
One quandary that I've been mulling over in my boat building dreams is how to go about the sheer clamp, being that its tucked inside the sheer strake and notched into the frames at the same time as well as laminated from three layers!!
One possibility I thought of would be to roll the hull at strake seven then notch outer layer of clamp into frames the cut seperate pieces of middle layer in between frames then inside layer notched into inside of frames, then the sheer strake gets put on. One advantage of this would be that the sheer curve could be gazed at, right side up and one could right ones hull sooner!!
I wonder if you'd mind running this by your Mentor mate and see what he thinks - maybe I've missed something important.
Regards Andrew
P.S. Boat pics are never boring, just have a look at Jim Ledgers thread on WBF, and the detail he goes to. I for one have waited too long for your next update!!!
Andrew,
ReplyDeleteThat plane is truly something to drool over. Only thing better would be a power rabbit plane. I understand someone used to make them, but they got a well deserved reputation as a finger eater, and were taken off the market.
I would definitely address the sheer clamp after turning the hull. I can't think of a good reason to do it upside down, but maybe I am missing something.
I agree with you that there is a lot of merit in turning the hull before doing the top strake. In addition to giving you better sight lines for fairing, gravity will help you keep it clean, if you want to consider bright finish for the sheer strake. Coincidentally, I was talking about that with the guys at the Seaport Museum boatshop yesterday,(Thursday is my regular day to volunteer there) and the consensus was that, while no one had personal experince flipping a boat before doing the sheer, it seemed like a good idea for all the noted reasons. I may try it, so you'll have my experience a a reference before you have to face it yourself.
Charles
Charles, After more thinking it struck me that the deadwood is normally done before turning the hull on these boats ( that i've seen being built on the net ). But I spose thats no biggy 'cos it'd have to be done anyway. Its a difficult to build setup that Iain's specified and I wonder if a normal clamp and shelf system ala carvel building might be easier. If I get around to it I may write to Iain.
ReplyDeleteBTW I hope you know of the series of WB mags that have a Grey Seal build ( I'm not sure that i've mentioned it before) No's 128,129 & 130.