The flat spots will be fixed with a layer of epoxy thickened with West Systems 410 fairing additive. Then, a layer of dynel fabric will be applied over the entire surface, and bedded and covered in epoxy. I plan to cover the entire hull up to the 5th strake with dynel. It is highly abrasion resistant, and given the problems that can occur if the plywood is exposed, it seems like a sensible precaution.
Looking up at hull-to-be, 4 planks down, 4 to go. |
Looking aft |
Forward section of starboard 4th strake just glued |
I promised myself that I would do a thorough cleanup of the hull and floor before beginning the 5th strake. I guess that will be my milestone celebration.
Hi Charles, Congrats on the name you've chosen for your boat. I was disapointed on the lack of pics though but you've come through this time.
ReplyDeleteAs to the ply - how floppy do you find it, reason i ask is that I'm considering scarfing off the boat but with a 24 foot floppy it may be too cumbersome, but perhaps 1/2 inch ply may be manageable, what do you think, I could con an extra pair of hands at times though. I'm worried about getting the scarfs right on the boat.
Sorry Charles that Anon was me Aussie Andrew
ReplyDeleteHey Andrew, good to hear from you.
ReplyDeleteI think that if you have enough space to work, and help when planking, you could certainly do your scarph glueup off the boat. The long board being floppy should not present much of a problem, especially with an assistant. However, I have not found it too difficult to line up the scarph joints on the boat for glueup, except for the turn of the bilge on the third and fourth strakes where the bottom edge wants to pull apart. Strategically placed clamps and temporary screws, and occasional sanding and fairing seem to solve those problems which do arise. The come-along trick I described above really helps with the worst of the turns during glueup.
You could certainly try both techniques (glueup off, and glueup on) and see which works best for you.