Deck Beams and a Hatch

Construction has reached the stage where Lagniappe is becoming more of a sailboat every week.  The open space that was so amazingly vast at the end of April when we flipped her has begun to get filled up with structure, and is not nearly so big anymore. I finished fairing the deck beams for the aft deck, and installed, glued and faired the aft king plank. Now I have moved on to the foredeck.  

Once again, the only complication was the lack of drawing detail providing the deck beam radii.  I arrived at the correct radius by installing the deck beam at frame 3, which does show in the plan, and then laying a batten along the center line between the top of that beam and the top of the sheer clamps at the stem.  Allowing for approximately 1/2 inch downward deflection between frame 3 and the stem, per the plan, I was able to calculate the arcs of each of the intervening deck beams at frames 1, 1 1/2, 2, and 2 1/2.  No big deal.

As with the aft deck beams, I used clear Douglas fir.  I have gotten all my deck beams so far -- fore and aft -- from careful cutting of a single 2 by 12 by 12 foot board.   What a bargain! After all beams were notched into the sheer clamps and glued, I used a batten to fair them fore to aft, side to side, and crosswise.  

Deck beams in place, glued, and faired

 I have been thinking about a forward hatch, on and off for a couple of months now, and haven't found a good reason not to have one.  I don't see why Mr. Oughtred didn't provide for it in his plan, but regardless, having seen several completed Grey Seals with forward hatches in photos, it seemed like a worthwhile modification.  


I placed the hatch opening centered over the keel, between frames 1 1/2 and 2 1/2.  First, I cut 26 inches out of the center of frame 2, and then ran supports fore and aft between frames 1 1/2 and 2 1/2.  I angle notched into each beam and glued.  This gave me a rough opening of 24 inches across and 25 1/2 inches fore to aft.  After installing trim inside this framework, I will end up with an opening approximately 22 1/2 by 24, which should be adequate.  I actually had my wife measure my shoulders to make sure, and wide though I am, I should fit through nicely.

The foredeck hatch opening, before final fairing

While in the neighborhood, I installed the samson post, which has been sitting and waiting lo these many months in the basement.  All it required was cutting a bevel on the bottom so it lays flat on the keel at frame 1, and the fabrication of a wedge to be screwed to the keel aft of the samson post, to hold it in place.

Samson post in position with wedge holding it in place

I intend to through bolt the post to frame 1 with a couple of homemade silica bronze carriage bolts (1/4 inch should do it.)  I am not sure if I will glue the post to the keel, or bed it and screw it.


Yesterday, I took a few minutes to pick the brain of  an incredible resource for information on all things having to do with wooden boat construction, Bruce Mackenzie, the director of the Independence Seaport Museum (Philadelphia) Workshop on the Water (WoW) concerning hatch cover design.  Bruce recommends an exaggerated side to side arc -- perhaps 1 inch more extreme than the arc of the deck at that point -- for the best visual effect, especially with as curvy a design as the Grey Seal.  I have looked at a few pictures on the web, and I agree with him.  Hatch cover construction will make a great project for one of those inevitable days in July or August when it will be too hot to work in the garage.


Now, I have turned my attention to my first plywood activity in many months -- bulkhead construction.  I started with the bulkhead at frame 8, for a very simple reason -- I am still scared of the big one at the forward end of the cockpit at frame 6.  This should be good practice.  I started by spiling a template of the opening using 1/4 inch luaun plywood, a compass for scribing, and my hot glue gun.  I think I will use that template to cut out a full size solid pattern from luaun, and fit that before taking a chance with the expensive stuff.

Spiled pattern for bulkhead, hot glued and reinforced